Isalo National Park

Revision as of 14:30, 15 October 2012 by MissMada (talk | contribs) (Guides and entrance fees)

Revision as of 14:30, 15 October 2012 by MissMada (talk | contribs) (Guides and entrance fees)

The Isalo National Park is part of the Ranohira municipality in the Ihorombe region. The park is located 279 kilometres south of Fianarantsoa and 80 kilometres south of Ihosy. The park is the most visited protected area in Madagascar and a popular highlight when discovering the Great South.

Isalo National Park was founded in 1962 and is administrated by Madagascar National Parks since 1997. The park is situated along the RN7, a tarred road connecting the capital of Antananarivo with Tulear. The road is in very good condition and accessible all year round. The route from Antananarivo to Ranohira, also known as the door to Isalo, takes about 15 hours by car (701km). From Tulear to Ranohira is a 4-hour drive (250km). It is also possible to travel by taxi-brousse, which leave daily from Fasan’ny Karana station in Antananarivo, Antsimo station in Fianarantsoa and Sanfily station in Tulear.

The park spreads over an area of 81,540 hectares, with an average length of 59 kilometres and an average width of 22 kilometres. The perimeter of the park is 164 kilometres. The altitude varies between 514 metres and 1,268 metres and some of the canyons are up to 200 metres deep.

The Isalo massif is a continental sandstone plateau, dating back to the Jurassic times. The park features various sandy valleys and narrow canyons. Strongly attacked by erosion, the rocks vary in shape and composition. The soil in the park is rich in iron and aluminium.

In the eastern part of the park, the following rivers flow from north to south: Marandra, Tsiombivoly, Andriamanero, Andranonkova and Namaza Ianakandrarezo, all small tributary rivers of the Menamaty, a tributary river of Mangoky. In the western part, the following rivers stream from north to south: Sambay, Amboloando, Ankademoky, Sakamalio, Hoanga, Vohibasia, Andranomena and Sambalahitsara Analakira, all of which are small tributary rivers of Malio, another tributary of the river Mangoky.

The climate is tropical dry, with an annual rainfall of 800-1000mm in the months of December to March and an average temperature of 17°C in June and 25°C in February.

Since centuries the Bara people dominate the Isalo region. Their main activities are livestock, especially zebu, and agriculture.

Contents

Fauna

Birds

There are 77 bird species living in the Isalo National Park, of which one is endemic to Madagascar, the Pseudocosyphus bensoni - Benson's rock thrush. The following species can be observed in the reserve:

Scientific name English name Malagasy name
Polyboroides radiatus Madagascar harrier-hawk Fihiaky
Buteo brachypterus Madagascar buzzard Bobaky
Falco newtoni Madagascan kestrel Hitikitiky
Numida meleagris Helmeted guineafowl Akanga
Streptopelia picturata Malagasy turtle dove Dehoky
Oena capensis Namaqua dove Tsakatoto
Treron australis Madagascar green pigeon Voronadabo
Coracopsis vasa Greater vasa parrot Sihotsy
Coracopsis nigra Lesser vasa parrot or Black parrot Sihotsy
Coua cristata Crested coua Tokambolo
Cuculus rochii Madagascar cuckoo or Madagascar lesser cuckoo Taotaokafa
Centropus toulou Malagasy coucal or Madagascan coucal Toloho
Corythornis vintsioides Malagasy kingfisher or Madagascar kingfisher Litotsy
Merops superciliosus Olive bee-eater or Madagascar bee-eater Kiriokirioky
Eurystomus glaucurus Broad-billed roller Tsararahaky
Leptosomus discolor Cuckoo roller or Courol Vorondreo
Upupa epops Hoopoe Tsakodara
Motacilla flaviventris Madagascar Wagtail Triotrio
Coracina cinerea Madagascar cuckooshrike Vorondavenoky
Hypsipetes madagascariensis Malagasy bulbul or Madagascar bulbul Menasony
Copsychus albospecularis Madagascar magpie-robin Fitatsy
Pseudocossyphus bensoni Benson's rock thrush Menatretraky
Cisticola cherina Madagascar cisticola Tity
Neomixis tenella Common jery Kininitsy
Neomixix striagulla Stripe-throated jery Kininitsy
Terpsiphone mutata Madagascar paradise-flycatcher Singetretry
Nectarinia souimanga Souimanga sunbird Sobita
Nectarinia notata Malagasy green sunbird Siangavola
Zosterops maderaspatanus Malagasy white-eye Tsiparimaso
Leptopterus chabert Chabert's vanga Fotsytretraky
Leptopterus viridis White-headed vanga Vorondaja
Vanga curvirostris Hook-billed vanga Bekapoaky
Dicrurus forficatus Crested drongo Ndovy
Corvus albus Pied crow Gaga
Foudia madagascariensis Red fody Fody
Lonchura nana Madagascar munia or Madagascar mannikin Tsipiny
Newtonia brunneicauda Common newtonia Katekateky
Tachybaptus pelzelnii Madagascar grebe Vivy
Ardeola idae Madagascan pond heron Malemylava
Ardeola ralloides Squacco heron Malemylava
Circus maillardi Réunion harrier Fitsindraky
Milvus migrans Black kite Tsimalaho
Accipiter Henstii Henst's goshawk Fandrasabe
Accipiter Francesii Frances's goshawk or France's sparrowhawk Fihiaky
Bulbulcus ibis Cattle egret Sikotry
Ardea purpurea Purple heron Dangoro
Lophotibis cristata Madagascar crested ibis or Madagascar ibis Akohoala
Dendrocygna viduata White-faced whistling duck Vivy
Sarkidiornis melanotos Knob-billed duck Angongo
Anas erythrorhyncha Red-billed teal Sadaelatsy
Macheiramphus alcinus Bat hawk Hila
Falco eleonorae Eleonora's falcon Firasambalala
Falco concolor Sooty falcon Firasambalala
Falco Peregrinus Peregrine falcon Fitsindrinky
Margaroperdix madagascariensis Madagascar partridge Traotrao
Turnix nigricollis Madagascar buttonquail Kibo
Dryolimnas cuvieri White-throated rail or Cuvier's Rail Tsikoza
Gallinula chloropus Common moorhen Akohondrano
Porphyrio porphyrio Purple swamphen Vatry
Charadrius tricollaris Three-banded plover or Three-banded sandplover Kalipa
Tringa nebularia Common greenshank Sakalo
Actitis hypoleucos Common sandpiper Bohaky
Pterocles personatus Madagascar sandgrouse Hatrakatraky
Agapornis cana Grey-headed lovebird or Madagascar lovebird Kitrehoky
Coua gigas Giant coua Aliotsy
Tyto alba Barn owl Vorondolo
Otus rutilus Madagascar scops owl Torotoroky
Ninox Superciliaris White-browed hawk-owl Tovotovoky
Asio capensis Marsh owl Hanka
Caprimulgus madagascariensis Madagascar nightjar Fatoriandro
Zoonavena grandidieri Madagascar spinetail Firihitsandro
Cypsiurus parvus African palm swift Firihitsandro
Apus melba Alpine swift Firihitsandro
Apus barbatus African black swift Firihitsandro
Ispidina madagascariensis Madagascar pygmy-kingfisher Litotsy
Mirafra hova Madagascar lark Boria
Phedina borbonica Mascarene martin Firihitsandro
Saxicola torquata African stonechat Fitaboly
Nesillas typica Malagasy brush warbler or Madagascar brush warbler Vorombaratra

Reptiles and Amphibians

39 species of reptiles can be found in the park. The snake Typhlops arenarius and the skink Mabuya vato are endemic.

The main families are:

  • Pelomedusidae - fresh water turtles
  • Geckonidae - geckos
  • Opluridae - iguanas
  • Chamaeleonidae - chameleons
  • Scincidae - skinks
  • Cordylidae - lizards
  • Typhlopidae - blind snakes
  • Colubridae - snakes

Amongst the amphibians living in the park are 2 endemic frog species: Mantidactylus corvus and the Malagasy rainbow frog (Scaphiophryne gottlebei).

Scientific name English name Description
Scaphiophryne gottlebei Malagasy rainbow frog or Rainbow burrowing frog Frog
Scaphiophryne brevis Frog
Mantidactylus corvus Frog
Mantidactylus curtus Frog
Mantidactylus femoralis Frog
Mantidactylus lugubris Frog
Mantidactylus wittei Frog
Boophis sp Tree frog
Boophis albilabris occidentalis White-lipped bright-eyed frog Tree frog
Boophis goudotii Tree frog
Boophis luteus Tree frog
Boophis tephraeomystax Tree frog
Mantella expectata Blue-legged Mantella Frog
Heterixalus betsileo Betsileo reed frog Reed frog
Tomopterna labrosa Frog

Mammals

  • 14 species of lemurs can be found in the park, of which are 8 introduced and 7 endemic to Madagascar. The following lemurs are nocturnal (active at night): Coquerel's giant mouse lemur (Mirza coquereli), Red-tailed sportive lemur (Lepilemur ruficaudatus), Western fat-tailed dwarf lemur (Cheirogaleus medius) and the Grey mouse lemur (Microcebus murinus). The Verreaux's sifaka ("Propithecus verreauxi"), Ring-tailed lemur ("Lemur catta") and Brown lemur ("Eulemur fulvus") are diurnal (day active).
  • Carnivores: Small Indian civet (Viverricula indica), Fossa (Cryptoprocta ferox) and the Malagasy civet ("Fossa fossana").
  • Insectivores: Lesser hedgehog tenrec ("Echinops telfairi).
  • Omnivores (all-eater)
  • Rodents

By 2009, following mammals were listed in the park:

Scientific name English name Description
Cheirogaleus medius Western fat-tailed dwarf lemur Lemur
Microcebus murinus Grey mouse lemur Lemur
Mirza coquereli Coquerel's giant mouse lemur or Giant dwarf lemur Lemur
Propithecus verreauxi Verreaux's sifaka Lemur
Eulemur fulvus Brown lemur
Lemur catta Ring-tailed lemur Lemur
Lepilemur ruficaudatus Red-tailed sportive lemur Lemur
Echinops telfairi Lesser hedgehog tenrec Tenrec, insectivore
Tenrec ecaudatus Tailless tenrec or Common tenrec Tenrec, insectivore
Suncus madagascariensis Madagascan pygmy shrew Shrew (mouse), insectivore
Mormopterus jugularis Peter's wrinkle-lipped bat Bat, insectivore
Tadarida sp Bat, insectivore
Hipposideros commersoni Bat, insectivore
Triaenops menamena Bat, insectivore
Miniopterus manavi Bat, insectivore
Miniopterus gleni Bat, insectivore
Myotis goudoti Malagasy mouse-eared bat Bat, insectivore
Pipistrellus sp. Bat, insectivore
Viverricula indica Small Indian civet Civet, carnivore
Cryptoprocta ferox Fossa Fossa, carnivore
Fossa fossana Malagasy civet Civet, carnivore
Mus musculus House mouse Mouse, rodent
Macrotarsomys bastardi Bastard big-footed mouse Mouse, rodent
Eliurus sp Mouse, rodent
Eliurus myoxinus Dormouse tufted-tailed rat Rat, rodent
Rattus rattus Black rat Rat, rodent

The best fauna most visible to tourists

Scientific name English name Description Where to find When to find
Mantella expectata Blue-legged Mantella Frog with blue legs, yellow back, black and white dotted chest. Natural swimming pool circuit. Rainy season.
Mabouya sp Long-tailed skink, reptile. Six species of this genus are only known in Madagascar, all are endemic. Brown colour, neck with white dots. Natural swimming pool circuit. All year round.
Boophis albilabris occidentalis White-lipped bright-eyed frog Frog, endemic to Isalo and Bemaraha. Cascade of the Nymphs circuit. Rainy season.
Pseudocossyphus bensoni Benson's rock thrush Songbird, endemic to Madagascar. All circuits. All year round.
Brookesia Chameleon Canyon of the rats. Rainy season.
Buteo brachypterus Madagascar buzzard Bird of prey, endemic to Madagascar. Can be found throughout the island. Canyon. Dry season.
Polyboroides radiatus Madagascar harrier-hawk Bird of prey, endemic to Madagascar. Fairly common. Canyon. Dry season.
Upupa epops Hoopoe Colourful bird with an distinctive orange crown of feathers.
Terpsiphone mutata Madagascar paradise-flycatcher Bird that can be found on Madagascar and the Comoros. Namaza circuit. Rainy season.
Acrantophis dumerili Dumeril's boa Snake that can be found mostly in the southern and southwestern Madagascar, especially in Andranolava near Mahajanga. Namaza circuit. Rainy season.
Ithycyphus perineti Perinet night snake Snake that lives in the rainforest. Namaza circuit. Rainy season.
Scorpion Natural swimming pool circuit. All year round.
Phromnia rosea Flatid leaf bug Insect. At a distance it can be mistaken for a flower. All circuits in the forest. Rainy season.

Flora

In the Isalo National Park grow more than 400 plant species. The following plants are endemic to Madagascar:

  • Pachypodium rosulatum - Elephant's Foot Plant of the Apocynaceae family
  • Catharantus ovalis - medicinal plant, endemic to the Ihorombe region and the entire plain of Zomandao
  • Kalanchoe - medicinal plant
  • Palmier d’Isalo - adapted itself to the hot, dry climate of the Isalo region
  • Bismarckia nobilis - a typical palm of the region, with the particularity to resist fire. Its branches are used by the villagers for plaiting. The Malagasy name for the palm is "Satrana".

The best flora most visible to tourists

Family Scientific name English name Endemicity Where to find When to find
Apocynaceae Pachypodium rosulatum Elephant's Foot Plant Endemic to Madagascar Natural swimming pool circuit. All year round.
Ichnolepsis tuberosa Natural swimming pool circuit. All year round.
Asclepiadaceae Menabea venenata Endemic to Madagascar. Natural swimming pool circuit. All year round.
Aloaceae Aloes isaloensis Endemic to Madagascar. Natural swimming pool circuit. All year round.
Crassulaceae Kalanchoe
Apocynaceae Catharanthus roseus Madagascar Periwinkle
Sarcolaenaceae Sarcolaena sp Endemic to Madagascar. All year round.
Asteropeiaceae Asteropeia micraster Endemic to Madagascar.
Dipterocarpaceae Monotes madagascariensis All year round.
Arecaceae Dypsis onilahensis Endemic to Madagascar.
Cyathea isaloensis All year round.

Landscape

This huge eroded massif extends over a large grass bed, dotted with forest. Isalo offers a fantastic, colourful landscape, shaped by erosion, and incredible panoramas.

The south consists of a large, sandy plateau, 800 metres above sea level. The plateau is characterised by savanna, shrubs, prairie grass and naturally eroded sandstone hills.

The east consists of a large plateau with an altitude of 1000 to 2000 metres. It is largely covered by sclerophyllous plants and prairie grass. The plateau is cut by numerous varyingly deep canyons with more or less permanent streams. The east of this plateau is dominated by rocky cliffs, characteristic for Isalo.

The west is a vast monocline plateau with an average altitude of 1000 metres. It is almost entirely covered by sclerophyllous plants and large plains of prairie grass. In several places the plateau is cut by canyons, similar to those in the east. Like the east plateau, also the west plateau ends by rocky cliffs.

The central part between the east and the west is dominated by a valley, a sequence of plains and low-lying plateau, surrounded by sclerophyllous plants and grass meadows.

The north consists of a large rock barrier in the eastern part with typical rocky escarpment at its end, varying in altitude between 800 and 1200 metres. The centre is formed by a vast monocline plateau, about 600 to 700 metres above sea level, which greatly reduces the lowering to the Amboloando river. The eastern part is a low plateau of 600 to 700 metres above sea level, descanting to the Malio river.

The area surrounding the park in the west, east and south consists of peneplain with an average altitude of 800 metres. (A peneplain represents the final stage of fluvial erosion in times of extended tetonic stability.) In the west remains some forest along the river beds of Malio, Analalava and Analambia, forming the park boundary at this side. In the east, there is also a remnant forest along the river bed of the Menamaty, but smaller in size compared to the west. The rest is dominated by a large tree and shrub savanna which occupies a large area with prairie grass.

Guides and entrance fees

The park office is located in Ranohira, 3 kilometres east of the park. There you can inform yourself about the various tours, guides and their rates as well as possible accommodation costs. Please bare in mind that the office does not open before 7am, so it is advised to obtain an entrance permit already a day in advance in order to have a full day in the park.

There are 70 guides working in the park. All speak French, as well as some English, Italian and German. All guides are educated in general culture, ecology, geology, local culture and technical guidance. A noticeboard informs about the specialty of each guide.

More information about the park is available in the Maison de l'Isalo, an interpretation centre located in Zahavola, about 9 kilometres south of Ranohira along the RN7 direction Tulear. The centre holds a permanent exhibition about the geology, fauna, flora and the influence by the local people. The museum is open daily from 6.30am to 6pm, there is no entrance fee.

The admission fee for visiting the park depends on how many days will be spent in the park. Foreign tourists pay 25,000 Ariary for 1 day, 37,000 Ariary for 2 days, 40,000 Ariary for 3 days and 50,000 Ariary for 4 to 10 days (prices 2010). Guides are obligatory. The fee for a guide depends on the chosen tour (circuit) and can reach from 16,000 Ariary for the Natural Swimming Pool circuit to the 20,000 for the Maki Canyon. Porters cost 10,000 Ariary a day.

Circuits (Tours)

There are several circuits crossing the Isalo National Park. Visitors can choose between easy and medium level circuits. It is possible to combine individual circuits by staying overnight at a campsite in the park.

Piscine Naturelle - Natural Swimming Pool Circuit

Medium circuit, 3 km by car from Ranohira to Mangily and thereafter 3 km trek (3 hours).
What to see?
This is the most popular circuit in the park offering panoramic views. The trek leads you to a palm-fringed pool, constantly fed by a warm waterfall. You walk through diverse ecosystems passing eroded cliffs with strange shapes, the plain of Tapia trees, the big savannas and several tombs of the Bara and Sakalava people. Beside various plants, one can observe the Ring-tailed lemur in the Mangily forest. The narby Analatapia campsite has a toilet, shower and barbecue facilities.
Guide: 20,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 16,000 Ariary

Cascade de Nymphe, Piscine Noire et Bleue - Cascade of the Nymphs, Black and Blue Swimming Pool Circuit

Easy circuit, 4km by car, thereafter 288km trek (3.5 hours). Easy trek to the campsite, however, the ascent from the river up the waterfall or to the Black swimming pool can be more arduous.
What to see?
This tour takes you through the canyon to the Black or Blue swimming pool. You will climb waterfalls inhabited by many rare birds, butterflies and lizards. From the top one has a panoramic view over the green canyon. Throughout this trek there is the possibility to spot lemurs. The highlight is a bath in the dark waters of the Cascade of the Nymphs.
Guide for the Cascade of the Nymphs: 20,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 16,000 Ariary
Guide for the Black and Blue Swimming Pool: 20,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 16,000 Ariary

Canyon des Makis et Rats - Canyon of the Makis and Rats Circuit

Medium circuit, first 17km by car, thereafter 1.7km trek (2.5 hours).
What to see?
This circuit combines the wild nature and cultural discoveries. The trek offers panoramic views onto rice fields, incised rocks, gorges, the Canyon of the Makis and Rats as well as the huge Ihorombe plateau. The hike will take you to a former royal village, where you will see the surrounding palace wall, the royal bath, the royal tombs as well as traditional Bara tombs. While hiking up the huge gorges you can discover the unique flora of the forest and observe numerous colonies of lemurs, birds, butterflies and lizards. At the end of the trek you can go for a swim in the canyon.
Guide for the Canyon of the Makis: 24,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 20,000 Ariary
Guide for the Canyon of the Makis and Rats: 30,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 24,000 Ariary

Crête - The Crest Circuit

Medium circuit, 3km by car thereafter 4km on foot (2.5 hours).
What to see?
Discover the natural geological forms, for which Isalo is famous for: "Reine de l’Isalo" - The Queen of Isalo, "Botte" - The Boot, "Loup" - The Wolf, "Tsingy de l’Isalo" - sharp limestone karst pinnacles.

The Malaso Circuit

Medium circuit, 42km by car (4 hours) thereafter 2km trek. The Malaso circuit draws its name from the zebu thieves which use the natural labyrinth of the Isalo for their activities.
What to see?
The car will take you to a site where Pachypodium, Aloe and Kalanchoe grow. Thereafter you will trek for one hour with the opportunity to discover the vegetation of the Isalo National Park. You will see the southern wall, the Tsihitafototra canyon, lemurs, the Isalo Ranch and The Boot. Thereafter the trek will continue through a geological site, where you will see the Tsingy of Isalo in the savanna, the Ampasimaiky cliffs and the rockformation The Wolf. From the peak at a hight of 975m above sea level you have an unlimited view over the entire park, the best place to admire the vast extent of Isalo. 30km further you will be near Lac Andranovorinkaolo, a lake paradise for wild ducks. Thereafter, cross the Satrana savanna to get to the Window of Isalo - a natural rock formation in type of a window through which the sunset can be seen.

The Antsifotra Circuit

Medium circuit, 29km by car (5 hours) thereafter 5km on foot.
What to see?
This circuit will take you to a riparian forest where lemurs live and ends at the foot of an amazing waterfall.
Guide: 20,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 16,000 Ariary

The Anjofo circuit

Medium circuit, 29km by car (5 hours) thereafter 5km on foot.
What to see?
This trek along rain-loving vegetation gives you the opportunity to see orchids, birds and lemurs. The hike ends at a wonderful waterfall.
Guide: 20,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 16,000 Ariary

Lac Vert de l’Isalo - The Green Lake Circuit

Medium circuit, 20km by car (4 hours) thereafter 1km on foot.
What to see?
You will cross the Tapia forest, an riparian forest with palms and lemurs to reach the Green Lake (Lac Verte) which is a sacred place.
Guide: 20,000 Ariary (1-4 people), car: 16,000 Ariary

Grand Tour - The Big Circuit

Hard circuit, 4 days on average. 120km on foot or 40km by car and 80km on foot.
What to see?
This tour compiles all sites, fauna and flora of the park: Archaeological sites (Grotte des Portugais), unforgettable panoramas, the dry forest and the rain forest, birds and lemurs (day as well as night active) and the natural swimming pool.
Guide for Natural Swimming Pool Circuit and Cascade of the Nymphs Circuit: 32,000 Ariary (1-4 people)
Guide for Canyon of the Makis Circuit and Cascade of the Nymphs Circuit: 36,000 Ariary (1-4 people)
Guide for Cascade of the Nymphs Circuit and Black and Blue Swimming Pool Circuit: 24,000 Ariary (1-4 people)
Guide for Canyon of the Makis Circuit, Natural Swimming Pool Circuit and Cascade of the Nymphs Circuit: 52,000 Ariary (1-4 people)

Tourist attractions in the region

  • Grotte d’Ihosy - An underground cave located about 9 kilometres from Ranohira, easy to reach by foot or car.

Cultural events in the region

  • Bilo - a ritual of exorcism to cure the patient by removing the spirit that inhabits its host. During the 7-day long ceremony an ox is slaughtered. The involved persons are the patient, the healer, the Mahavatsy and the Tiam-bilo.